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View Full Version : Need Rx for Wheel-Hop


Warrlac
03-19-2006, 04:22 PM
Just wondering about what can be done, let's say in increasing level of complexity, to reduce wheel-hop in IRS Cobras?

I am thinking about poly bushings from Maximum Motorsports first. I don't want to set my car up for pure 1/4 mile, but I would like to stop the hop.

What have you guys done? :help:

Kafn8td
03-19-2006, 05:07 PM
I must be one of the lucky ones, my 04 hardly ever hops. My 01 was part bunny, but it has to be really cold out for the 04 to hop. I do have the H&R springs, so that may help, but even when totally stock it did not hop. Sticky tires (in my case the Nittos) also help.

Video_Master
03-19-2006, 05:37 PM
Do not get the kit from MM. It is $1100 for the full kit. Spend half the cost by buying from a couple of guys on SVTP who have reproduced the kit for $550.

moddedmystic
03-19-2006, 07:41 PM
Dont waiste your money on bushings. My 'scrip for wheel hop is a set of QA1's,air bags, and sticky tires! Throw in a diff brace for safety and your done.
Cheers, Mark A

Grenade
03-19-2006, 11:39 PM
Go with a solid axel, but that's just me being silly.

Warrlac
03-19-2006, 11:48 PM
I think I get this:

You are saying that I should get coil-overs for the rear (QA1's) and go with Airbags in the place where the spring used to be. Right? That way you can inflate the bag(s) and stiffen up the rear end for consistent launches and 60 ft times, etc.

I have F1 GS-D3's on the rear (315's). Are they sticky? I suppose that they are not as sticky as drag radials. I do notice some wheel hop however...

Thanks for the feedback!

P.S. - I do have a brace for the diff. :)

badcobra
03-20-2006, 08:05 AM
Rick must be one of the lucky ones to not have hop. The single best thing you can do to eliminate wheelhop is to run sticky tires. And sorry, GY GS-D3's are not considered sticky tires. With some Nittos, Horsepower By Hermann adjustable shocks, and MM poly diff bushings I pretty much eliminated wheel hop except for when the roads were really cold.

Kafn8td
03-20-2006, 08:16 AM
Tony, does Herman still make the shocks? (modified qa1's?)

badcobra
03-20-2006, 08:22 AM
Tony, does Herman still make the shocks? (modified qa1's?)
I think so, but am not sure. I bought mine last year. I just had em for sale too. I thought for sure someone here would snatch em up. Ended up selling em to some IRS Lincoln dude on TCstangs...Grifter it was. Too bad a Cobra brother didn't grab em!

Kafn8td
03-20-2006, 08:25 AM
dang, how did I miss that one!?

moddedmystic
03-20-2006, 09:08 AM
I think I get this:

You are saying that I should get coil-overs for the rear (QA1's) and go with Airbags in the place where the spring used to be. Right? That way you can inflate the bag(s) and stiffen up the rear end for consistent launches and 60 ft times, etc.

The QA1's are not coil overs, they are a replacement type shock that are adjustable. The airbags I'm talking about go inside the spring.

Here's the part number for the QA1's, MU7856P
I paid $320 from Jegs
Here's the part number for the AirLift drag bags, 60897
Paid $65 from Jegs

Really easy install for both!

~Mark A

Video_Master
03-20-2006, 09:22 AM
Shocks are $140 a piece thru summitracing.com and $67 for the air bags. Mark, how do you inflate the bags and deflate them? Do you need a separate pump or anything?

badcobra
03-20-2006, 10:58 AM
Mark, I don't see the value of running airbags with an IRS when you have adjustable shocks. You can crank the right rear shock up to be a little stiffer to compensate for what an airbag can do. With a solid, the situation is quite different, but I just don't see the value with an IRS. Just my $.02

moddedmystic
03-20-2006, 11:55 AM
Shocks are $140 a piece thru summitracing.com and $67 for the air bags. Mark, how do you inflate the bags and deflate them? Do you need a separate pump or anything?

Theres an air line that comes off the top of the bag which goes to a valve stem, kinda like an air shock set up. All you have to do is run the lines mount the valve stem and your set. I have mine mounted in existing holes in the frame by the back of the car. Cant beat them for the price! If you put them in at the same time you do the shocks its a breeze.Take the wheel off, remove the old shock,lower the A-arm, fold the air bag up,slide it between the coils in the spring, put isolator in, hook up air line...put new shock on, reinstall wheel and your done. :rockit:

~Mark A

moddedmystic
03-20-2006, 12:02 PM
Mark, I don't see the value of running airbags with an IRS when you have adjustable shocks. You can crank the right rear shock up to be a little stiffer to compensate for what an airbag can do. With a solid, the situation is quite different, but I just don't see the value with an IRS. Just my $.02
It does help in controlling wheel hop by helping keep the tire planted,and sort of acts as a spring dampener.Plus if your running a taller tire it gives you a little more clearance between the tire and fender. A cheap suspension upgrade in searching for better short times.
Cheers, Mark A

badcobra
03-20-2006, 12:11 PM
What short times have you gotten? I consistently went 1.72 - 1.75 on 315 Nittos with a 1.64 best at CFR. This was blower only with the HBH shocks. Unless you are launching at 5000+ RPM, I don't see how the airbag helps keep the tire planted when you are just riding the clutch out to prevent wheelspin.

moddedmystic
03-20-2006, 01:38 PM
I ran 1.77 short time with this set up :rockit:

Cheers, Mark A

Kafn8td
03-20-2006, 02:20 PM
1.73 with the nittos, stock shocks and lowering springs. Once I figured out how to do it, I could keep it in the mid 1.7 range.

Video_Master
03-20-2006, 02:45 PM
Do you think it is tougher to launch on stock springs or lowered springs?

Kafn8td
03-20-2006, 04:42 PM
Never tried the Nitto's on the stock springs, but the H&R race springs are stiffer and will not transfer weight as well as the stock. I would assume stock springs would be better.